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Can i apply for a mortgage after one approval same time

 
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Asked by
Ken


Can i apply for a mortgage after one approval same time? Thank you for your help.
0     In Mortgage

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    Q. Is it bad to apply many mortgage pre approval?


    "Also prior to presentation of the mortgage commitment..."



    It may be especially when frequent credit pulls are done. Also prior to presentation of the mortgage commitment, you normally sign an agreement letter with the lender that they will get you a certain rate or better but you have to stick with them or pay a certain % if you bring the commitment to another lender. Stick with one. I would be shopping for you instead of you going to different banks and I only do one credit pull.

    This answer closely relates to:
    • Level 1 mortgage approval
      • Can i switch lender after i sign the commitment letter?
      • Can i switch lender after i sign mortgage commitment?

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    Q. O.k is there a financial adviser here? can you apply for a mortgage loan and student loan at the same time?

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    O.k i'm about to buy a house ( me and 2 sisters) we are waiting for the bank to respond, but i want to enroll in this b.a program which will cost me 30k i need to do it before july 25th because the price for this course will increase next month, i don't know if the mortgage loan will affect the student loan because i need to get financial aid. should i apply for the student loan, without worrying about the mortgage loan which is in process right now? or should i wait for the approval of the house and the apply for the student loan? please i need an answer time is running fast. o.k i make $45k a year all my credit card debts are $2500 + a auto loan $6000 and that's it. credit score o.k and the mortgage loan will be 305,000k

    "Since the mortgage responsibility is being split 3-ways that..."



    It's not so much school it's all about your debt to income ratio. ...so even if you weren't in school but had the same amount of debt in credit cards...loans...etc... you'd still have to be able to prove you can servie the debt. Since the mortgage responsibility is being split 3-ways that will make each individuals load lighter. The bank is going to respond before July 25 and you can apply AFTER you get the mortgage. Don't increase your debt to income ratio for such a high amount $30K is way too much and your credit is going to take a hit. Definetly wait for the house approval and have your student loan documents all filled out and ready to go afterwards.

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    Q. Is it ok to apply to more than one lender for a mortgage so i can accept the best offer?

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    I am a first time home buyer and would like to shop around for the best deals/rates. i'd like to get pre-approved for a loan. i'd also like to shop around for the best terms, interest rates, etc. i'd also like to make sure i am pre-approved for the right amount (for the house that i want and can afford). is it a good idea to apply for pre-approval to more than one lender so i can pick the best offer? i know it might be negative for a lender to see my credit report be pulled from different lenders. would they see that as someone looking for the best loan or as someone looking to over extend their credit? would they be able to tell the credit checks were pulled for a mortgage application? i'll probably have more questions, but i guess i should wait for the answer to this one before jumping the gun. thanks in advance.

    "Call every mortgage company you can on your own..."



    Don't let anyone pull your credit report until you have made your choice. You can get your score yourself then let the lender know the number. You can call around yourself and then compare rates on the same type of loan. Go for a simple straight forward loan. No variable rate, balloon payments, PMI etc. Talk to as many lenders as possible and write down everything each one says in a notebook. I have found e-trade to be very forthcoming and direct with good rates. Major banks can have decent loans too. Beware of companies who advertise on the radio. Trust no one until you do your research. Find out what the loan will cost as if you were going to write them a check for all the fees instead of letting them roll it into the loan. You'll be very surprised at how many don't want to answer that one. Also make sure there is no prepayment penalty. Some of the big advertisers on the radio charge enormous prepayment fees (if you need to sell or refinance) and are very sneaky about this. It is very easy to get financed. Make sure you can easily afford the payment. Most lenders will tell you you can afford a payment much higher than what you actually can while still eating. Good luck- arm yourself with knowledge and you'll do just fine! You do not want to apply for many loans!!! By getting your own score you can use this info to shop your loan around. Sometimes realtors choose lenders because the lenders bring donuts to their offices. Call every mortgage company you can on your own. When you have narrowed it down then ask around. Find out who other people you know have their loans through and why they chose them. Also by getting your credit report yourself you have time to check for and fix any errors that might be on your report.

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    Q. Does applying for a mortgage loan affect your credit score?

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    My fiance and i were recently pre-approved for a mortgage loan, yet we have somewhat limited credit history. a co-worker told me that every time you apply for a pre-approval, it brings down your credit score ... she also said that we only have 90 days to take out a loan before the pre-approval expires. is this true? if so, i'm worried we won't find a home within the 90 days and we won't get a second pre-approval.

    "You don't get pre-approved unless the mortgage company thinks that you are credit worthy..."



    Since you were pre-approved, you have already gotten the loan. You don't get pre-approved unless the mortgage company thinks that you are credit worthy. You can get extensions on the loan approval. Don't listen to the water cooler authorities, as they don't know Jack about anything. She is just pulling your chain. Contact the mortgage company broker who handled your pre-approval. She will hold your hand through the whole process, as she only gets her commission after you have closed your contract (escrow) on the property. I have gone throughout house buying several times. Don't worry. Just make sure that you have a loan that won't jump in the future.

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    Q. Which first- apply for new mortgage or list our house for sale?

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    We are hoping to move to a new home this summer but my husband and i can't agree on timing. he wants to have it on the market april 1st as that gives him over two months to get his credit scores looking good and to make minor improvements/repairs around the house. but he is assuming we would need to apply for a new mortgage immediately upon listing the house. i think that since the market is so slow we'd do better to hurry and get listed (say by march 1st) and then start the mortgage approval process once we've had a few showings. i don't know if there is a standard sequence for these things- this is the first house we've owned so i've never been through the process of buying and selling. i would appreciate any advice at all! thanks. i should add that we started the approval process with one lender a few months back but didn't follow through because he found out our credit union has better rates. they also have pretty high expectations for credit scores. their minimum score is in reach- essentially paying off our credit cards (just did yesterday) will push us over but it can take up to two months for the reporting agencies to update that on credit reports. i also know most lenders want to see your last two bank statements so this is why my husband is pushing for a two-month wait before we list. so we have a pretty good idea of the amount and rate we'll qualify for (though i do know things are getting worse by the day with the housing slump and subprime mess). don't have any idea if this info changes anything but thought i should add it just in case!

    "Always apply for the mortgage first..."



    ALWAYS apply for the mortgage first. The mortgage guidelines have changed so much that you need to have at least a 650 or higher score to get a somewhat decent rate. Then you need to know if your budget can afford the new rate. See if you qualify to get your next mortgage first. I have actually heard of a couple who sold their house first then did not qualify for their next mortgage....You do NOT want to put yourself in that situation. Get your mortgage squared away first, this will dictate what you need to do next. (Blogdog is a Licensed Mortgage Broker and Licensed Realtor in the state of Florida.)

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    Q. Can a mortgage bank cancel your pre approval loan?

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    We are first time home buyers and before we start looking for a house, we made sure that we are already pre approved. can a bank cancel their pre approval even if there are no changes in your credit worthiness and application details when you applied for the loan? what are the common reason? do we have to do another appraisal if we change lender?

    Yes. A lender can deny the loan right up to the day of funding. But it is rare unless your financial circumstances change.

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    Q. When applying for a mortgage vs. obtaining a new job in the same field just at a higher rate of pay...?

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    My husband and i are in the process of looking to buy our first home and save the 5% down payment (in ontario, canada) - i have recently been given the opportunity to obtain a new job - the very same career choice, doing the same similar duties, simply at a much larger rate of pay and closer to home. i have been at my current job for over a year now (after finishing mat.leave) and wanted to know if i should stick at my current job, apply for a mortgage pre-approval and then change locations or do it now and use the higher salary as a tool to better qualify us? will the time spent at a job be a deciding factor? i do not want to lose the opportunity for a higher salary, however, do not want to sacrifice getting a pre-approval because i just started a new job. thoughts? advice? thanks!

    No Problem. Don't worry about changes in your field. Lenders are only interested in your job security. A move to a better job in your field is actually a good thing. The only caveat is that they tend to frown on a lot of down time in between jobs, so if you are planning on a break in between, try to keep it to a couple of weeks. Otherwise it looks like a period of unemployment... Pre-approvals are only good as long as nothing significant changes. Even if you were approved today the lender would still double check your employment a day or so before closing.

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    Q. Things to do before submitting a mortgage application?

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    What are some things i should do to better my credit, or increase my chances of approval for a mortgage application? my husband will turn 21 in december, and he has only one credit card which we've never maxed out or paid late for. we have a son (baby) and another dependent. he works full time and i work part time. we probably qualify for usda loans or fha mortgages. if there are any suggestions of things to do or make sure of before we apply. please feel free to share. (the price range of houses here is from 60 to 125 thousand). that is, decent housing.

    "For submission of applications for federal housing mortgage insurance or as an issuer of..."



    If you're debts are under control now, but want to improve your bad credit history, the most important factor is to make your monthly payments on time. Use pre-addressed envelopes enclosed with your statements to mail your payments and call the company if you don't receive your usual statement. Also send your payment as early as possible if you carry a balance. Most companies calculate interest on a daily basis, so the sooner they receive your payment, the less interest you'll pay. Don't procrastinate. It's the day your payment is received that counts, not the postmark date. Give the post office sufficient time (five business days is a good guideline) to deliver your mail. Late payments may mean late fees, higher interest, and/or a negative mark on your credit report. Never send cash. Open a checking account if you don't have one, or spring for a money order and keep your receipt. Finally don't forget to tell your creditors your new address when you move. If you are worried about making payments, make a list of your debts and when the payments are due. Contact your lenders immediately if you think you will have trouble meeting the monthly payments to arrange a payment schedule. Taking money from your retirement account or tapping the cash value of your life insurance policy to pay bills or living expenses may have serious implications you haven't considered, so try to get advice from an expert before you take any major financial actions. Credit cards can be invaluable in a crisis, since they allow you to charge items and pay them off over time. But they can also be dangerous if you aren't careful and charge more than you can afford. If you do use credit cards, choose those with the lowest interest rates and pay them back as soon as you can to cut your costs. Credit Scoring - How it Works . Credit scoring is a statistical method that lenders use to quickly and objectively assess the credit risk of a loan applicant. The score is a number that rates the likelihood you will pay back a loan. Scores range from 350 (high risk) to 950 (low risk). There are a few types of credit scores; the most widely used are FICO? scores, which were developed by Fair Isaac & Company, Inc. for each of the credit reporting agencies. Credit scores only consider the information contained in your credit profile. They do not consider your income, savings, down payment amount, or demographic factors like gender, race, nationality or marital status. Past delinquencies, derogatory payment behavior, current debt level, length of credit history, types of credit and number of inquiries are all considered in credit scores. Your score considers both positive and negative information in your credit report. Late payments will lower your score, but establishing or re-establishing a good track record of making payments on time will raise your score. Different portions of your credit file are given different weights. They are: 35% - Previous credit performance (specific to your payment history) 30% - Current level of indebtedness (current balance compared to high credit) 15% - Time credit has been in use (opening date) 15% - Types of credit available (installment loans, revolving and debit accounts) 5% - Pursuit of new credit (number of inquiries) The most important factor for a good credit score is paying your bills on time. Even if the debt you owe is a small amount, it is crucial that you make payments on time. In addition, you may want to: keep balances low on credit cards and other "revolving credit;" apply for and open new credit accounts only as needed; and pay off debt rather than moving it around. Also don't close unused cards as a short-term strategy to raise your score. Owing the same amount but having fewer open accounts may lower your score. Recent changes minimize the negative effects that rate shopping can have on a mortgage applicant. If there is a consumer originated inquiry within the past 365 days from mortgage or auto related industries, these inquiries are ignored for scoring purposes for the first 30 calendar days; then, multiple inquiries within the next 14 days are counted as one. Each inquiry will still appear on the credit report. Every score is accompanied by a maximum of four reason codes. Reason codes identify the most significant reason that you did not score higher. The reason codes can help a lender describe the reasons for higher than expected rates or loan denial. Scores are not part of the credit profile and are not covered by the Fair Credit Reporting Act. Your credit report must contain at least one account which has been open for six months or greater, and at least one account that has been updated in the past six months for you to get a credit score. This ensures that there is enough information in your report to generate an accurate score. If you do not meet the minimum criteria for getting a score, you may need to establish a credit history prior to applying for a mortgage. Other factors to a mortgage, always pay your rent by CHECK. A lender will verify with the landlord if you have paid on time, and your cancelled checks will be your way of showing proof. A lender will look at 12 month rental history, if you do not have cancelled checks that is OK - This can still be verified by the landlord. 2 years job time, 2 years W's (not your taxes, just the w'2s will be needed). There are other factors to consider, besides credit. Medical Bills are Over looked buy underwriting (since medical is a unforseen event), where as credit cards, are looked at (since you purchased items on a credit card.) Also, Job time of 2 years, Rental history for 2 years is looked at. What collections & judgements are on your credit report. Some collections may not have to be paid off. Judgements may need to be paid off - depends on the Lender and Their Underwriter. All of these are taken in as a factor on getting a home loan. Credit can be worked on, by adding alternative credit. If you are paying regularly on a cell phone, auto insurance, rent, etc - these are called alternative credit.. All is not HOPELESS - ok - take a deep breath. If your credit score is 500 or higher, anything is workable, with a seller second - etc the higher the credit score the better. Lenders look at the middle score...of the 3 scores. If you only have 1 score or 2 scores (have seen it), it is still workable....but unless a lender sees the whole picture - credit - income - job time, etc - than you will not have a "true" picture of what you can afford - Hope this helps - There are also Government programs out there, but they too are looking for job time, etc.....They are not so much looking a credit - but the other factors are taken into consideration. With a government loan - collections and judgements will have to be paid (most ppl do not know that) but for FHA it is true.... ALSO - When you Decide to buy, decide on how much you want to spend, if you want to escrow the taxes and insurance. Say the taxes are 1200 a YR and insurance 800 a year (just an estimate, ok) That is 2,000 a year divided by 12 = 166.66 If you paid 1,000 a month now - (166.66) your P/I Principle and Interest would be 833.34. Now you decided on the price range you are looking into. If you have great credit, a 1 loan at 130,000 at a rate of 7 percent over a 30 year time would be 864.89 - This is just a estimate - ok - It greatly depends if you need help with closing cost, (The seller could do Seller Help toward your closing cost). If that is the case, I normally tell my clients NOT to hackle over the price, since you are asking for closing cost help - especially if the home is thru a realitor, and the seller has to pay the realitor their fee which runs from 3-6 percent of the selling price, and you ask for 3-5 percent toward closing cost -assistance) Follow me so far?? Talk with a broker, a broker underwrites for many company's (I underwrite for 150 companies) so I only have to pull credit 1 time, and they look at my credit. A single lender (not a broker) has programs available, but they may not be able to help you and your situation, so you go elsewhere, and than that person pulls your credit (see what I mean.) If you shop, your credit is pulled and that is considered a soft pull, for a 30 day period. Just like shopping for a auto, it is good for 30 days. If you apply for a credit card, that is considered a "hard" pull and it drags down your credit score. When looking for a home, please do not apply for a credit card, Department Charge Card, Gasoline Card or make any major purchases, like a auto, etc. This will pull your credit down. Try to find someone (broker) that will pull your credit one time, and submit your loan application to company's that will go off his credit report. By the way, a loan application is called a 1003, and they will issue you a GFE (Good Faith estimate, with-in 3 days, that is per the RESPA laws, and the TIL (Truth in Lending). The GFE will tell you the up-front closing cost associated with your loan. The TIL will tell you the terms, rate associated with your loan. This is a estimate only - not the final - but it does help you figure things out. Go to these websites http://www.nehemiahcorp.org/ http://www.fanniemaefoundation.org/... http://www.fha-home-loans.com/ http://www.freddiemac.com/ Welcome to the USDA Income and Property Eligibility Site http://eligibility.sc.egov.usda.gov/eligibility/welcomeAction.do 1. This site is used to determine eligibility for certain USDA home loan programs. In order to be eligible for many USDA loans, household income must meet certain guidelines. Also, the home to be purchased must be located in an eligible rural area as defined by USDA. To learn more about a USDA home loan program, click on the Loan Program Basics link on the left side of this screen and select one of USDA's home loan programs. To determine if a property is located in an eligible rural area, click on the Property Eligibility link on the left side of the screen and select a Rural Development program. When you select a Rural Development program, you will be directed to the appropriate property eligibility screen for the Rural Development loan program you selected. To determine income eligibility of an applicant/household, click on the Income Eligibility link on the left side of the screen and select a Rural Development program. When you select a Rural Development program, you will be directed to the appropriate income eligibility screen for the Rural Development loan program you selected. To find out how to apply for a Rural Development Loan, click on the Contact Us link on the left side of the screen and then select a Rural Development Loan program. Rural Housing Direct Loans are loans that are directly funded by the Government. These loans are available for low- and very low-income households to obtain homeownership. Applicants may obtain 100% financing to purchase an existing dwelling, purchase a site and construct a dwelling, or purchase newly constructed dwellings located in rural areas. Mortgage payments are based on the household's adjusted income. These loans are commonly referred to as Section 502 Direct Loans. 2. Purpose: Section 502 loans are primarily used to help low-income individuals or households purchase homes in rural areas. Funds can be used to build, repair, renovate or relocate a home, or to purchase and prepare sites, including providing water and sewage facilities. Eligibility: Applicants for direct loans from HCFP must have very low or low incomes. Very low income is defined as below 50 percent of the area median income (AMI); low income is between 50 and 80 percent of AMI; moderate income is 80 to 100 percent of AMI. Click here to review area income limits for this program. Families must be without adequate housing, but be able to afford the mortgage payments, including taxes and insurance, which are typically within 22 to 26 percent of an applicant's income. However, payment subsidy is available to applicants to enhance repayment ability. Applicants must be unable to obtain credit elsewhere, yet have reasonable credit histories. Elderly and disabled persons applying for the program may have incomes up to 80 percent of area median income (AMI). Terms: Loans are for up to 33 years (38 for those with incomes below 60 percent of AMI and who cannot afford 33-year terms). The term is 30 years for manufactured homes. The promissory note interest rate is set by HCFP based on the Government’s cost of money. However, that interest rate is modified by payment assistance subsidy. Standards: Under the Section 502 program, housing must be modest in size, design, and cost. Modest housing is property that is considered modest for the area, does not have market value in excess of the applicable area loan limit, and does not have certain prohibited features. Houses constructed, purchased, or rehabilitated must meet the voluntary national model building code adopted by the state and HCFP thermal and site standards. Manufactured housing must be permanently installed and meet the HUD Manufactured Housing Construction and Safety Standards and HCFP thermal and site standards. Approval: Rural Development officials should make a decision within 30 days of the Rural Development office's receipt of the application. Basic Instruction: 7 CFR Part 3550 and HB-1-3550 Section 502 Guaranteed Loan Program: 1. Section 502 loans are primarily used to help low-income individuals or households purchase homes in rural areas. Funds can be used to build, repair, renovate or relocate a home, or to purchase and prepare sites, including providing water and sewage facilities. Eligibility: Applicants for loans may have an income of up to 115% of the median income for the area. Area income limits for this program are here. Families must be without adequate housing, but be able to afford the mortgage payments, including taxes and insurance. In addition, applicants must have reasonable credit histories. Approved lenders under the Single Family Housing Guaranteed Loan program include: Any State housing agency; Lenders approved by: HUD for submission of applications for Federal Housing Mortgage Insurance or as an issuer of Ginnie Mae mortgage backed securities; the U.S. Veterans Administration as a qualified mortgagee; Fannie Mae for participation in family mortgage loans; Freddie Mac for participation in family mortgage loans; Any FCS (Farm Credit System) institution with direct lending authority; Any lender participating in other USDA Rural Development and/or Farm Service Agency guaranteed loan programs. Terms: Loans are for 30 years. The promissory note interest rate is set by the lender. There is no required down payment. The lender must also determine repayment feasibility, using ratios of repayment (gross) income to PITI and to total family debt. Standards: Under the Section 502 program, housing must be modest in size, design, and cost. Houses constructed, purchased, or rehabilitated must meet the voluntary national model building code adopted by the state and HCFP thermal and site standards. New Manufactured housing must be permanently installed and meet the HUD Manufactured Housing Construction and Safety Standards and HCFP thermal and site standards. Existing manufactured housing will not be guaranteed unless it is already financed with an HCFP direct or guaranteed loan or it is Real Estate Owned (REO) formerly secured by an HCFP direct or guaranteed loan. Approval: Rural Development officials have the authority to approve most Section 502 loan guarantee requests. Basic Instruction:7 CFR Part 1980.

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    Q. Credit changes before mortgage closing?

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    I'm scheduled to close on my house on june 16th. i applied for a mortgage pre-approval in march, at which time, i was honestly skeptical that i would even be approved. at the end of march, i took out a $400 short term loan with a local loan company to use for a last-minute trip out of town. i will be paying this loan off in full this friday, may 30. in the meantime, to my surprise, i actually got pre-approved for the mortgage. do you think this small loan that i took out so recently will cause any problems or cause my mortgage to not go through? i'm a litte worried...

    "A $400 loan will most likely not affect your qualifying for your mortgage..."



    A $400 loan will most likely NOT affect your qualifying for your mortgage. Be sure to disclose on your final 1003 (it is like the application you originally signed... only this is at closing) this little loan and bring a statment showing the $0 balance. It wouldn't be a bad idea to give a copy of the $0 statement to your LO as soon as you get it. I was happy to see that you only had a $400 loan. I have had people BUY CARS and spend ALL of their down payment $ in between applying for a mortgage, getting an accepted contract and closing! HAHA!

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    Q. Anybody with mortgage approval knowledge?

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    In short- my mom (only 58) is planning on selling her house (too big to take care of, she lives alone) she would like to purchase a home with my husband and our kids. an in-law. currently, we rent our home. we have never owned a home or even attempted to. we were always concerned that we would never get a loan. my credit score is 690 my husbands is 650...neither of us have bad credit, however we do have some unflattering issues. i don't believe these issues will be looked at too harshly since of all my loans (credit cards,car loan) i have never been late paying on them. its more about the fact that our cards are usually maxed out. but we still make the payments and we usually pay double the minimum. what concerns me about being approoved is our employment history. i have been at my job for 15 months-however the company i work for i have been under their 'name" for the last 6 years-i just moved to a different division of the company (however it is a seperate pay roll) i"m not sure if this would have any bearing what so ever on my history. another thing is my husband just started his new job in may. prior to that he was deployed out of country (national guard), prior to that he had been in construction working odd jobs here and there but nothing really stable. so, his employment is splotchy (aside from the military which he has been "employed" with for over 14 years.) would his military history have any bearing on his history of employment? since he has only been on the job for a month will his time served in military help him out? the situation that my mom is in, and the fact that we found a house that we want is giving us little time to 'fix' things or build up employment. we want this now not later. the house is a huge fixer upper (no kitchen/bathroom etc...) so there is no way the va is going to approve us getting a loan for it. i will be looking into it of course through a bank...my sister in law is a real estate agent and is the assistant branch manager at a small town bank...so i will end up applying and so on...but i'm just curious now about what other peoples' thoughts are on the info i have given...from people who actually have a good understanding about loans and mortgages (because i don't). my husband is very worreid we won't be able to and therefore he just doesn't want to try-but i say-whats the harm in trying...the worst that can happen is...we don't get a loan! well heres' why we want the house. it sits on 1.18 acres of land. and the cost is $195,000...ridiculously low for the boston area. my husband and i can't afford to buy a house above $260 say (and thats even too high) and in our area...we'd be getting crap for that amount....might as well buy a house that has decent property. my mom would be using the money she makes from her home to help us fix it (if we can get it) i would love to buy a "better" home, but its just not possible. the homes around here are still in the 450-500 range (if you want something decent) and like i said, we're looking for a home with potential in-law...

    "Mortgage lenders will likely ask why they have not raised yours..."



    I'd be a little careful here. People get into trouble when they buy with their hearts and not their heads. Specifically, you said that you wanted this now not later. When you think like that, you often rush into financial commitments that don't make sense and buy the wrong property. With the real estate market where it is right now, why buy a fixer upper? Prices are as low as they have been in years and rates are darn near the same. If you can afford to fix up a house, you can afford a better home that has a kitchen a bathroom. Regarding your loan, there are a couple of things working for and against you. Your employment histories are fine. The bank wil understand your change in payroll and your husband's military service will be view favorably. The first issue is the FICO score. Even though you have not paid anything late, scores in the 600 range are not going to help with the loan process. Although you have paid all of your bills on time, you are maxed out of your credit. A large part of the FICO score is the debt to credit ratio. Basically, how much of your credit are you using. As banks view you as worthy risks, they raise your available credit. Mortgage lenders will likely ask why they have not raised yours. If they have raised them and you max out to the new limit, the bank will ask why can't you live within your means? Both of these will make a bank think twice about lending you money. I agree that it is worth trying, but remember, buy with your head. Renting is not the end of the world. In fact it is generally cheaper on a cash flow basis. Find the right house at the right time.

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